Canvassed or fused suits? Which is the best option for me?

It’s a question that is asked at V & J quite often. And in fact a very important one. It’s a question that could quite possibly, over time save you time, and money.


Fully canvassed, half canvassed, fused, what do they all mean? To some it may be just fancy terminology to dress up the perceived image of the garment one may be selling. However, these terms and their uses, play a major roll with garment making today, and play a just as important role when buying your next suit. So you ask, which one is the best option for me?


Bespoke tailoring. It’s a tradition that has been used for generations and generations. And is still a tradition that is used today. It is a costly experience, yet an experience that every man should endeavour do at least once in his lifetime. From fitting to fitting, every measurement is recorded throughout the exercise, and adjustments are made assuring a perfectly fitting garment at the end of the process. It is after all, a gentlemen’s experience.  


As for the terminology, a canvased suit consists of a horse hair lining that sits between the wool shell of the garment. It acts as a structured foundation, much like a house. Without it, your suit over time will begin to sag, deform and bubble. It also allows the garment to drape more naturally, giving your suit a more structured look. A half canvas construction acts much the same. The difference is it sits half way down the jacket, has less handy work, and has a more affordable price point.  A fused garment, most commonly found everywhere today, and is the more affordable option, is a thin layer of glue that is attached to the inside shell of the jacket. It is the quickest made suit, and cheapest version on the market today.  This will in a short period of time however, give you less bang for your buck. And in turn it may do a fair job keeping its shape, over time howver, it will give your suit an unnatural finish, and the result, a lifeless looking suit.


The cost of a suit will depend on a few factors. Construction, quality materials used, (Canvas or non-canvas) although many of us have a budget to spend, the cost of a well-made suit has very little room for compromise. If you do have a budget to spend, to which falls under a fused suit category, make sure the fabric used is one of a higher quality. Which there are many to choose from, the fabric on a suit makes up round 60% of the construction. So it’s a good idea to ask how it’s made, and where the fabric is milled. Merino, or worsted, Australian, or Italian, pure wool, or blended. Pure wools would be the better choice, however if your budget decides, a blended composition suit could be the best option.


So, when on the hunt for a new set of threads to complete your wardrobe, or you are updating a current suit that is at the end of its career, make sure you ask a few questions when buying your next outfit.

  • Is the suit full or half canvas?
  • Is the suit fused?
  • Is it pure wool?
  • Does the fabric come from Italy, or English mills?


To further help you, here are some examples of what these different options may cost you.

Pure wool full canvas suiting off the rack will set you back anywhere from $1200 - $3500 plus. Fully tailored bespoke from $3500 - $10,000 plus. Depending on who has made it, where it’s made and of course what fabric is used. They all play a major factor.

Half Canvas suits can start from $799 to $1200 off the peg. And again for bespoke from $2000 - $10,000 plus. For the same reasons.

Fused suits, which start from as little as $199 to $599. If you pay any more than that then the fabric will play a part in the overall price.


If you have any questions relating to this topic, or you would like one of our fitting experts to help with your next purchase, please contact us at, or proceed to the contact page and inquire within.


Happy suit hunting.